Angela's Andean Adventures.

Kausary and Quimantu in December 2002

Before seeing Quimantu in London on 14th December I had the delightful surprise of seeing Johnny's band Kausary who had decided to visit Bath. Johnny phoned me at work on Tuesday to say they were booked to play at Wells Christmas market on Wednesday and I said I would join them after work there. Liz, their local agent, phoned as well to be sure I knew about them coming down. So I took everything I needed with me to work on Wednesday so that I could whizz down to Wells as soon as work had finished that day, which would not be until 5 pm as I was making up time so that I could leave early for an appointment in Bath the following Friday. Johnny said they would be staying in the area until Saturday so I was really happy. Even though I would not be around to see them play in Bristol on Saturday I knew I could meet up with them on both Wednesday and Friday (not being able to wriggle out of commitments already made for Thursday!)

Liz phoned me at 2 pm to say that the Christmas market would not be taking place after all - which of course was too late to prevent the band from travelling down from London as they had already arrived! The reason for the cancellation was bad weather, high winds and it was very cold. They decided to go and play in Wells anyway in the shopping centre and would hang on there until I arrived around 6 pm. I finally reached the place where they were playing about ten to six and they were playing when I arrived but I could see that the shops were closed and the streets deserted. Had the market been on, the shops would also have stayed open later, but they closed at their normal time when it was cancelled. I could see that there were three band members, Johnny and his Dad Julio plus a new member. They sounded good but as soon as I got there they chose that moment to pack up their instruments. It was hugs all round and I was introduced to the new band member, Carlos from Salta in Argentina, who as the evening progressed I got to know quite well and really liked him. Liz and I decided to go on ahead with the band to follow as we had decided to go back to her house and have supper there.

We got back thinking we had plenty of time to get supper going, but the band must have been much faster than usual packing up their instruments because they were only about five minutes after us! Luckily I found a good spot just across the road to park my car, Liz having left hers in her parking space so that she could move it when they arrived and put their van in her spot, it being much easier to park a small car than a big van. Once we were all indoors Liz produced drinks and nibbles and I put on a CD I had with me by Ayopayamanta which they all liked very much.

About half an hour later supper was on the table and we spent a lovely evening together at the table with plenty of food and drink and especially the good company. It was a delight to meet and get to know Carlos and we hardly stopped chatting all evening. After Ayopayamanta he put on a tape of his by an Argentinian singer called Silvina Iriondo and I loved the album which was called "Rio de Los Pajaros". This tape really sold me on Argentinian music which I had not taken much interest in before. Many of my friends who collect Andean music like me also collect Argentinian music and if this is an example of it I too will be collecting it from now on. Carlos was pleased I liked the tape so much and promised to make me a copy. A bit later in the evening we were expecting one of Johnny's friends to arrive and to my amazement when he walked in it was Oswaldo who lives in Bath. I don't know who was most surprised - him to see me there or me to see him walk in! We spent a very pleasant remainder of the evening chatting and although I had been drinking diet coke all evening because of having to drive back, I relented with the coffee and enjoyed a glass of Baileys liquer. I very reluctantly dragged myself away at 11.30 pm, knowing I would never get up for work next day if I left it any later and all of them escorted me to my car. Although I could not see them next day because of work and other commitments, nor Saturday because of my trip to London, I knew I could look forward to seeing them on Friday evening.

Liz phoned me at work on Friday to confirm arrangements for the evening. I had actually bought all the ingredients to take over there and cook a Peruvian meal for them but as it turned out the band wanted to see Benjamin who lives in Bath, which meant no time for cooking elaborate meals, so we agreed to meet up at Filo's, the pub within 10 minutes walk of Benjamin's house, at 9 pm that evening. This is the pub where I first met Benjamin the first time Kausary came and stayed with me - see the story on my website of Kausary's visit to Bath in January 2001. Liz said they were out playing but she would get food ready for their return so that they could get across to Bath and meet us without it being too late. I phoned Benjamin when I got home from work and he was thrilled to be meeting up with us all and I asked him to bring his Charango. Also that day I had the delightful surprise of a wonderful Christmas present from Layla which was a Robert Mirabel CD (Taos Tales) and the Music from a Painted Cave DVD, which she had arranged to be sent from Mirabel Productions. I was so excited when I opened it and saw these wonderful things, being a great fan of Robert Mirabel. The DVD box and the actual CD itself had been signed by Robert as well which made it even more exciting. I was really thrilled at such a fantastic Christmas present.

Colin picked me up at 7.30 and we went straight to Filo's, both groaning as we walked in to see Karaoke equipment set up for later which meant no jamming session of their music. Because of this, when the band and Benjamin all arrived together we suggested going somewhere quieter and they agreed and Benjamin suggested the Larkhall Inn, about 10-15 minutes walk from there. We left the cars where they were and walked there, Carlos and me taking up our conversation where we had left off on Wednesday. He said he had managed to tape half of Silvina Iriondo and would finish it the next day, which I thought was great that he had gone ahead and done it so quickly. When we went in the pub, I remembered it as being the pub that Colin and I had wandered nearly a year before which happened to be on Burns night. The landlady being Scottish had put on a buffet spread to celebrate it with all the locals and we were welcomed in warmly and invited to join in also. We received a similar warm welcome last Friday which made me wonder why we had left it so long to go back there. We found a table in the corner and Julio produced a lovely Christmas card which all the band had signed. Then in no time at all they were playing their music quietly and we could see that the people in there were absolutely enchanted with it. It was the most incredibly enjoyable evening and we were the last to leave after all the other customers had gone. When I was lamenting the fact that I did not have my camera with me, the landlady produced hers and took two photos of the band and then I joined them and she took two more to finish the film, so we will definitely be going back there soon to get the photos.

We all walked back to our cars and I said my goodbyes to the band and Liz with hugs all round, knowing I may not see them again until after my return from Peru. Then Colin drove us back to his place where I was staying the weekend, because of my early departure next morning and very late arrival home in the early hours of Sunday morning.

I slept really soundly until the alarm went off at 5 o clock when I got ready, calling Colin at 6.30 as we had planned to leave the house just after 7 o clock. Down at the station we had huge mugs of hot chocolate and giant buttered scones plus I had a huge double bacon roll to enjoy whilst on the train. Soon enough I was on the train and on my way to London. I so love travelling by train, especially in the direction of London to meet up with my Peruvian friends and the 1.5 hour journey always passes pleasantly as I listen to music, read a book, enjoy a snack and a few sweets. Before I knew it the train was pulling into Paddington and I knew I had about 10 minutes before meeting Jorge. Jorge had found me via my website 2 or 3 weeks previously and made contact and we had arranged to meet with him arriving at Paddington the same time as me, because of the fact that he lives only 10 minutes walk away in Marble Arch. The only trouble being that Paddington is a big place and although I had found a good spot to look out for him I could not see him anywhere. I was still listening to my music and had my phone in my hand thinking I would be able to hear it but when a glance at it 10 minutes later showed the message that I had missed not one but three calls, I realised he had phoned but that I had not heard it. I checked the message with voicemail which said he was in the station but I could not catch the name of the place where he was waiting what with all the noise, train announcements etc. Finally after listening to the message 4 times whilst scanning the names of shops, cafes and pubs as I walked around, finally I saw the Reef bar and realised that was the place. As I approached and was glancing in every direction to find him he hailed me and said are you Angela and as soon as I saw him I wondered why I did not spot him earlier - a) because the photo on his website was such a good one and b) because he was wearing a Peruvian coat with Nazca decorations on it, which you don't see very often except on another Peruvian!

It was lovely to meet him and we instantly felt at home with each other with no shyness or anything. I didn't ask his age but guess he is about 20. He had to catch a train later as he was spending the remainder of the weekend with his two cousins in Witham but was keen to go with me to Portabello market as he had not been there before so we set off there. Two stops on the underground from Paddington and then a ten minute walk. We both enjoyed the market and walked from one side to the other and back, taking in both sides. He was amazed at the fantastic array of fruit and veg on offer and at such good prices, saying he would be doing his weekly shopping there in future. Jorge is studying nutrition at college so eats very healthily and doesn't drink alcohol, so was really pleased about such a lovely market being so close to where he lives. I made a beeline to my favourite Indian stall where the guy recognised me and produced the velvet tops that I love so much. I ended up buying three, one for Elva, one for Aquiles' Mum and one for me! Also I found the shop selling T-shirts with London designs on and bought three, all destined for friends in Peru. We came across the stall where a Thai lady sells her marvellous spicy chicken soup and I could not resist a mug of that too. Whenever I am in that market with Aquiles and Claire we usually have 2 or 3 mugs of it, it's so delicious. Then I suggested a drink in one of the pubs there and we went into the Earl of Lonsdale where Jorge got the drinks in and we sat on two huge sofas in front of a log fire in the lounge which was so comfortable I could have stayed there all day! During our conversation we were talking about our favourite Peruvian meals and when Jorge realised I liked Ceviche (a popular dish all over Peru of raw fish marinated in lime juice with chillis and onions), he suggested we went to Tito's for Ceviche, to which I readily agreed. Tito's is situated on London Bridge which meant quite a winding journey on the underground, changing trains at two stations, so that by the time we reached the restaurant it was getting on for 1 o clock. As we walked into Tito's a young Peruvian girl did a double take as we walked in and I registered the look of surprise on her face and when she came upstairs as she was the waitress in the restaurant I realised why. She and Jorge knew each other - she had found him via his website whilst still in Peru and had arrived in London 2 months previously and they met each other shortly after her arrival but had not met since and were both pleased to see each other again.

The first thing I did on arrival in the restaurant was phone Antonio who would be accompanying me to the Quimantu concert that evening. I had phoned and spoken to him the previous evening when it turned out we had completely misunderstood each other! He had asked me my plans on arrival in London and I said I was going to Portabello market first and then "might" go to Covent Garden. He asked me to phone his mobile about noon, so when I phoned from Tito's and discovered he was already at Covent Garden waiting for me, I felt decidedly guilty. I explained I was at Titos having lunch and would join him by 2.30 and luckily he was okay about that.

Our Ceviche lunch was absolutely delicious and I had a Peruvian beer with mine and Jorge had another diet coke. The Peruvian girl took a photo of us and when it came time to pay the bill Jorge would not let me contribute. He said it was his treat which I thought was really sweet of him. He accompanied me to the tube station and ensured I reached the right platform to continue my journey to Covent Garden, and we said our goodbyes as he then had to go and get his train for Witham to see his cousins. Probably the next time I see him will be after my return from Peru as I have invited him down to Bath for the day, but we are going to keep in touch by email in the meantime. I had really enjoyed the morning spent with him and found him to be a delightful new friend.

My journey to Covent Garden involved a change of train at Waterloo, with my next train on the Piccadilly Line as far as Leicester square and then a further change to travel one more station to Covent Garden on another line. But in my haste to get on a train I could see was leaving any minute I found myself going back in the opposite direct from which I had just come! Luckily I had plenty of time to get there by 2.30 and even getting off, going back to Leicester square, then the change to get to Covent Garden I still arrived with about 10 minutes to spare. I couldn't see Antonio when I exited the station, but phoned him and in a few minutes he was there and seemed very pleased to see me again.

Covent Garden was very busy as usual and there was no Andean music anywhere unfortunately. We decided to go and have a drink first and went to the downstairs wine bar in the market, where we luckily found a table in the outside courtyard as live music was going on - a classical threesome - which was very nice. We enjoyed a large glass of wine each and had lots to talk about. I met Antonio at Carnaval del Pueblo in August as he was one of the many friends with whom I spent that fantastic day. Antonio had danced with me for ages, and when I lost sight of Claire and Aquiles in the mass exodus of the park at the end of the carnaval, Antonio kindly accompanied me all the way to Paddington station which I was so grateful for. Southwark was not the place to be at night on one's own, nor getting to the underground at Elephant and Castle, through which I had to go to get to Paddington. To get anywhere at Elephant and Castle one has to go through a labyrinth of underground subways which are usually occupied by some dubious looking people, so you can imagine how glad I was that I had Antonio to protect me. After we said our goodbyes at Paddington I did not hear from him for ages until one day one of his friends phoned me saying that Antonio had just found my phone number having lost it and asked him to phone me, giving me his own email through which I could write to Antonio. I did so and we exchanged a couple of emails, during which I asked if he would accompany me to the Quimantu concert and he readily agreed. I was very glad about that, because Colin did not want to go to London so close to Christmas and I did not want to miss the Quimantu concert but was nervous about going alone. I told Antonio in an email that I would phone him the day before the concert to finalise arrangements for meeting him.

Whilst enjoying our drinks at Covent Garden he asked me if I lived alone in Bath and I said no, my sons were living with me. He then asked their ages and looked quite shocked when I told him my eldest son Adam was 24. I then asked him how old he was and he said 24! Unlike my other friendships with Peruvians it seemed that poor Antonio was interested in me and I then had to explain that I had a boyfriend already in Bath, but that there was no harm in us just being friends. After our drink in the wine bar we looked around Covent Garden market and then walked to Leicester Square as I wanted to have a drink in the pub near Equinox Empire where I went after the Kjarkas concert in October. Leicester Square looked like an enormous fairground when we arrived with roundabouts and fairground rides everywhere but no Andean music unfortunately! We ended up spending the afternoon in the pub having a couple of pints of lager each and chatting, and when we came out afterwards we had some takeaway food before going by underground train to the South-Bank where the concert was taking place. We entered the Royal Festival Hall but had to go up one floor and then exit the glass doors and go into the nearby Queen Elizabeth hall, with Quimantu's concert taking place in the Purcell Room there. We had to wait 10 minutes for the auditorium to open and then we were in our seats as the auditorium filled up slowly. I had managed to get us seats right in the front row and central to the stage. About 15 minutes later another Peruvian known to both of us arrived and he was delighted to see us as he had come on his own expecting to see several of his friends there and we were the only ones. This is the guy met at Dante's party in July and who I have seen a couple of times since, including in the pub after Kjarkas concert, whose name I could never remember but now I know - Eliban! The concert was absolutely brilliant, one of the best Quimantu concerts yet and I enjoyed it immensely. There was an interval in the middle when we chatted to Eliban again and we agreed to go for a drink in a nearby pub after the concert.

Antonio was thoroughly enjoying the concert, not really having known their music too much beforehand, but pleased to go because it was an Andean band, and he kept saying how brilliant they were and how much he was enjoying them. Finally the sad moment arrived when the concert was over - they had done a 4-song encore and the concert finally ended just before 10 pm. I told Antonio that I wanted to pop backstage and say Hello to the band, which was easy but unfortunately he did not follow me! I asked one of the band members who was on the stage if I could go and say Hi to Mauricio and he said it was okay and pointed the way to get onto the stage easily. Already a few people were back there and Mauricio was bustling around getting everyone a drink and he handed me a glass of red wine. There was even a buffet spread of food which he invited people to partake of, and I was really regretful that I could not linger too long, knowing the other two were waiting for me so that they could go and get a drink. So I just drank my wine and said my goodbyes, saying I would see them again next year, and with their promise that they would let me know when the new CD was ready.

Back outside I joined Antonio and Eliban and we walked to a nearby pub where we stayed until almost 11 pm and were having a really good laugh together. I even got the bar tender to take a photo of the three of us, to go with the one taken of me with Jorge earlier and photos of the band as a fine memento of another brilliant London day out. Then we had to dash as my train was leaving Paddington at 11.35. The journey on the underground to get to Paddington wasn't quite as straightforward as envisaged because the next 2 trains were going off in another direction away from Paddington. It meant a mad dash to the Bakerloo line where we were able to get a train which got us to Paddington at 11 pm and we were running like mad to the mainline station, there to find the train was slightly delayed which gave me the added moments needed to get onto the platform and into the train before it left. As it was I had to get on the train a few carriages before the one my seat was reserved in as it was obvious the train was ready to leave and I could miss it otherwise. Once those doors are closed there is no way they can reopen. I left Antonio with the promise that I would write soon, and then fell into my seat as by then I was absolutely exhausted and dying to sleep but dared not because I knew I had to get off the train at Swindon and then get a replacement bus to Bath. It was quite a battle to stay awake but I managed to, and only when I got on that bus could I properly relax, knowing the final destination was Bath and that the driver would probably wake me up when I got there! Whilst in the pub with Eliban and Antonio I invited them to Bath after my return from Peru and when I said they could come down and go back in one day for only £17.50 if the ticket was bought in advance, they both said "Oh! Can't we stay for one more day?" Neither of them has been outside London so both are looking forward to a trip to Bath, which probably will be just for the day, but they could come for a weekend if they insist!

 finally got back to Bath at 2 in the morning where Colin was there to meet me and it was heaven to sink into bed finally as I was completely shattered by then but fell asleep happily after having spent another such wonderful day in London with my Peruvian friends and looking forward to the next Andean adventure. I was thinking the next one would be my trip to Peru on 13th January but when I went for lunch with Colin at the Pelican on Sunday the landlord expressed an interest in booking Kausary to play in the pub in the new year, much to my delight. I phoned Liz and told her Sunday afternoon so we are going to try and arrange it for Friday 10th January just before I go away. The band can then combine this with playing at Wells market on the Saturday and perhaps we can all go to the Larkhall Inn again on the Saturday night. So as long as the landlord of the Pelican doesn't mind booking them that soon after Christmas I can look forward to seeing them all again on 10th January. Liz said that Carlos had finished my tape and that she would be putting it into the post to me next day, and I said that I hoped that Carlos would accompany Johnny and Julio on the 10th as I had enjoyed meeting him and it would be great to see him again and she said she would see what she could do! With that to look forward to and my trip to Peru a few days later on the 13th, the start of 2003 looks incredibly exciting indeed.

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