Angela's Andean Adventures.
London 31st Mar 2001.
After such a brilliant weekend in Paris last week and knowing I'd miss
the rehearsal of not one but two bands on Sunday afternoon, I just had to
hear some live Andean music to make up for not being there! So Thursday
evening whilst at Los Andes Restaurant in Bristol for a meal and dance to
benefit Nicaragua as part of Central America Week I decided there was
nothing for it but I would have to pay a visit to London. Consequently Colin
went into Bath on Friday morning and purchased my train tickets as well as a
one day travel card for use on the underground.
I caught the early train at 7.47 from Bath which was on time and arrived
on time at 9.30. It was fun on the train to find Lorraine and Alfie and
their son Dalfino in the same carriage and have a chat and catch up on news
since we last saw each other. Lorraine and I used to share an office at
work.
On arrival in London, there was a delay on the circle line and a vast
crowd on the platform awaiting the train but luckily when it arrived I was
able to get on and two stops down the line and a ten minute brisk walk and I
arrived at Portabello Road market well before 10 am. I was delighted to find
my newest Peruvian friends - Victor, Edgar and Santiago - there with their
equipment having a chat prior to setting it up. I joined them and had a chat
too until it was time for them to set up the equipment ready to play, so I
took that opportunity to do a quick half hour tour of the market itself. I
just adore going there - there's something about London markets that really
appeals to me ... although on this occasion the biggest attraction of all
was the Peruvian band - Tarpuy - when I knew the weather wasn't good enough
for them to travel to Bath as provisionally arranged, I felt pretty sure I'd
find them at Portabello Market instead.
When I went back half an hour later the band were playing and I enjoyed
their music off and on for the next five and a half hours. In between
playing I was able to chat to them - Victor and I talked mostly about
Peruvian cookery as he is very interested in cooking too and sometimes does
cook-ins for his friends and promised he'd invite me to the next one! He
also said I could visit his Mum while I'm in Peru if I wish - as she loves
foreign visitors - she lives in the Andes above Lima, so I hope I can amend
my itinerary to include a visit there as well.
The band - Tarpuy - were originally in France and indeed some members of
the band are still based in Paris. Santiago hasn't been in England long so
his knowledge of English is limited but I was able to have a lovely chat
with him in French once Victor told me he was fluent in French. After a
while I noticed an internet lounge across the road, in an upstairs room of a
pub, so decided to pop in there for a while. It was great, being able to
take a large glass of wine upstairs to enjoy whilst at the computer, and
when the band started up again I could hear them as the windows were open,
the sun was shining; it was great as I didn't need to rush back! When I did
eventually go back they said they'd be playing until 5 pm and would then be
going to Sol Andino and would I like to go with them. Would I! Unfortunately
it was too late for me as I was booked to return on the 6.45 train back,
having pre-arranged plans for the evening back in Bath, so had to decline -
unfortunately! I knew there wouldn't be time as they had to take their
equipment home first.
I stayed listening until the last possible moment - 4.45 - before saying
my goodbyes and I made my way on two underground journeys to Elephant and
Castle. When I came up from the underground station there I just couldn't
remember how to get to the restaurant even though it was only January when I
was there - having been taken by Aquiles, Carlos and Claire. I hadn't paid
much attention to how to get where we were going and was faced with a
labyrinth of subways to get across roads. All I could remember was that it
was near an overhead railway bridge and the restaurant was in a complex in a
big yard.
I finally ended up in one yard - the wrong one - and then took a short
cut to get out the other side and what an awful experience that was - I was
in a deserted series of arches and would have been a prime candidate for a
mugging if anyone was about - it was the kind of place derelicts sleep in at
night - and I felt very nervous and was releived to get out the other side
without a problem as it was deserted at that that time of day - I bet at
night it's a different story!
Eventually I found the entrance to the right yard and even in there had
to think twice to find the entrance, which was a series of shops on the
ground floor, very busy, full of people (last time on a Sunday all those
shops were closed) but I remembered the restaurant was upstairs so was glad
to finally arrive and although very busy in there there were still tables
free. It is the sort of place one would never in a million years find by
accident and I could read the thoughts in their faces "how in the world did
she ever find her way here!" as I was the only non-latin face in the whole
place. People smiled and were friendly even though they didn't speak and I
didn't feel too out of place!
I loved the whole atmosphere of the place, it was like a different world.
Someone came in with a baby and people took turns holding that baby, even
some of the men-folk, whilst she had her meal with a friend. It was worth
going as the food was sensational. The lady at the counter explained what
every dish was and I chose one which was so good I decided to order
something else as well even though I couldn't finish it. I even managed to
buy a pack of Papa Seca there which costs so much to send airmail from USA -
back outside afterwards I found my way to the underground a bit easier than
coming and made it back to Paddington for my train with 5 minutes to spare.
The train arrived back on time where I met Colin and we went to La Flamenca
for tapas and had a really enjoyable evening. I was pretty exhausted though
and slept very well that night.
I'll definitely be seeing Victor, Edgar and Santiago again next week -
hopefully at my house, as I've invited them down and they will come as long
as the weather is okay. If they come they will arrive on Friday and will
spend a couple of nights at my house and I will know Thursday night so will
have time to get busy cooking if they are coming, or get Colin to purchase
my train ticket for London if not. If they don't come I'll be off up to
London again and spend the day with them in the market but this time going
to Sol Andino with them in the evening and getting a later train back around
11 or 11.30 pm. I've asked Colin and he doesn't mind and in fact is going to
try and organise that boy's night out with his son and his son's friend for
the same night, knowing I'll be otherwise occupied with the band, either in
London with them or having the Peruvian meal in my house if they come down.
If they come down I'm going to invite Benjamin and Oswaldo and Oswaldo's
girlfriend to join us. Either way it's another weekend to look forward to
and hopefully if they come down I can get another article started for both
that AIMA page and Jacco's Andean Music referral home page.
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